This blog is about travelling through Japan on a bicycle. Initially on a foldable bicycle (Brompton) and more recently mostly by road bike (Spezialized)... but also by train, ferry, plane, bus or any other transport, if sea, weather, mountains or the like come between me and my desire to ride.
I have tried to summarise information that could be potentially helpful also for other bicycle travellers through Japan, such as list of bicycle roads, helpful web pages etc.

Thursday 19 October 2017

Day 28 - Kuronagi onsen to Toyama 黒薙温泉から富山へ

Bicycle touring Japan - Day 28

An other day in the rain, so no chance for bicycle touring, but I had some cultural experience today, visiting the Glass Art Museum in Toyama.  

Bicycle: 2.5 km
Train: 60 km
Riding time: 15 min
Route: Kuronagi onsen to Toyama
Weather: Rain, 14 C


Again a day practically without riding the bicycle, but riding nonetheless... trains! 

As foreseen, today it rained. Too hard actually in the morning as that I could have enjoyed again the big outdoor onsen, I even had gotten up extra early (6:00) in the hope of the visit to the big pool, but did substitute that one with a bath in the indoor pool. After breakfast with my new Japanese old lady friends, I had an other visit to the smaller female-only onsen with its roof. It is rather hard to convince oneself to get all naked outside at a temperature of maybe 10 C and then walk under the rain (the few meters) from the changing hut to the pool, but once inside the water, it is heavenly. 

After that relaxing and heating soak I checked out and walked slowly back to the station armed and protected by my umbrella bought yesterday (and forgotten today at Shin-Kurobe station). 

Down again with the small train, change at Unazuki onsen station to the slightly bigger train of the Dentetsu line and off to Shin-Kurobe where I had left yesterday my bicycle and luggage. I finally spent over an hour at Shin-Kurobe station, as there was a nice museum about the Kurobe river and the Toyama plain, with great explanations in English as well at the tourism information office.

They even had a huge model of the entire Kurobe river. One amazing information I learnt there, that only in 2012 three glaciers were discovered in Japan. The only ones. I would have thought that such things as glaciers had long ago been discovered.

Then I gathered my luggage, got a bento, folded the bike and took the next slow train to Toyama. The station master of the Dentetsu line asked twice, if I was really sure that I wanted to ride on his slow train, instead of using the fast Shinkansen leaving just opposite. But I insisted. I wanted to see a bit the landscape and was in no hurry at all. Nevertheless I arrived at Toyama shortly after 13:00 and headed straight to my hotel to leave my luggage. A very strangely shaped hotel, but with a very nice and huge Japanese room:



While on the train I had checked what to do in Toyama, as I am here really only passing through and did not have any interest in Toyama itself. The glass art museum was recommended. I have to admit that I mainly went in order to see the building by the famous Japanese architect Kengo Kuma, but finally I was more impressed by the glass art than the building itself.



The glass art museum is distributed across all 6 floors, sharing the building with the city's library. I specially liked the works by Iezumi Toshio who polishes and carves sheet glass:


This work here specially reminded me of a landscape:


On an other floor there is a much more playful interpretation of glass.




Maybe of this work of art I most liked its shadow:


Bicycle touring Japan - Ride maps


For details on the bicycle tour today in Toyama, checkout the below maps:


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