This blog is about travelling through Japan on a bicycle. Initially on a foldable bicycle (Brompton) and more recently mostly by road bike (Spezialized)... but also by train, ferry, plane, bus or any other transport, if sea, weather, mountains or the like come between me and my desire to ride.
I have tried to summarise information that could be potentially helpful also for other bicycle travellers through Japan, such as list of bicycle roads, helpful web pages etc.

Showing posts with label Saga. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Saga. Show all posts

Sunday, 19 November 2017

Day 54 - Saga to Dazaifu 佐賀から大宰府へ

Bicycle touring Japan - Day 54

Today an other cold day through the plain between Saga and a little uphill to Dazaifu, where I visited the interesting Kyushu National Museum before soaking in my onsen of the night. 

Bicycle: 55 km 
Riding time: 3:50 h
Total ascent: 294 m 
Route: Saga to Dazaifu
Weather: Cloudy, a few drops of rain and later a bit of sun, strong wind, cold! 6 C


It was cold and windy today! Really cold! Probably it didn't help that I had decided to ride just with a skirt (not stockings), but closed shoes and cardigan. Probably the jeans would have been more comfortable for riding. 


Apart the cold there isn't a lot to say about the ride today. Here two pictures of the landscape, which again was the typical Japanese mix of fields, houses in all states of repair and disrepair, less industry than yesterday, train lines, including the Kyushu shinkansen and streets crossing it. And me on one of them... Partially I found smaller roads, but specially when they were through open fields, the wind was even stronger and colder, so where possible I reverted back to ride through built-up area.



Shortly before Dazaifu I found a curry restaurant, I had driven by a lot of other restaurants, but somehow had decided that I absolutely wanted to warm up with some curry. 



And then on to the one and only sightseeing spot of today, the Kyushu National Museum. An interesting building that I had seen earlier this year, when we were in Kyushu for Golden Week, but then I didn't have time to visit the inside. Originally I had hoped to visit it tomorrow... but tomorrow being Monday, it will be closed, and actually there was enough time today in the afternoon.



There was a very interesting exhibition about the Momoyama period. The time when the first Christian missionaries arrived to Japan and also other influences from overseas were present and Japan traded with other Asian countries. Before at the end of this era Japan was hermetically closed for all foreign contacts for the next 220 years. 

But during these few years when Christian missionaries first arrived to Japan and when Japan was finally closed off to the world, there was an active cultural exchange. In the exhibition was for example a folding screen with European city views, including Sevilla and Lisbon, or a wooden statue of Erasmus that had been conserved in a Buddhist temple. Also a embroidery with the virgin Mary that probably was produced in China was preserved in an other Buddhist temple. And through laboratories in Macao the Japanese folding screen became popular also in Europe. 

Apart from these intercultural objects, there were also a lot of tea ceremony objects that most of the visitors admired profusely. I have to admit that to me many of them look like first attempts at pottery in an evening class, but judge for yourself here. 

I also visited briefly the permanent exhibition of the museum that started with the Yayoi and finished around the Momoyama period. But only quickly as the museum was closing. So I rode over to my hotel on the hill opposite of the museum, here you can see the museum's roof from a distance as it integrates into the hill:



My hotel doubles as a day onsen. Before dinner I had a nice and relaxing bath, and I plan to have an other one tomorrow morning. Actually for tomorrow so far not a lot of plans, as I was in Dazaifu earlier this year and have seen already all major sights. But I guess I will to to the zen temple again and probably also the shrine. In Fukuoka itself there actually does not seem to be so many interesting things, so probably I will spend the morning soaking then off to Dazaifu "downtown" and then a short ride into Fukuoka. 

Tonight will be the last night in a Japanese room during my trip, as the next two nights are in a Toyoko-Inn in Fukuoka. 



Not one of the nicest Japanese rooms, but nice. Generally I have preferred the Japanese rooms over the Western ones, as with the same m2 they seem spacier as the bed does not take up so much space and during day time the futon just gets folded up and packed away.


Bicycle touring Japan - Ride maps



For details on the bicycle tour today in Fukuoka and Saga, checkout the below maps:





Saturday, 18 November 2017

Day 53 - Yanagawa to Saga 柳川から佐賀へ

Bicycle touring Japan - Day 53

Today was the first cold day on my cycling trip through Japan, and that in Kyushu! But not too cold to visit the village of Asterix, ups sorry, of the Yayoi culture.

Bicycle: 42 km 
Riding time: 3:00  h
Total ascent: 62 m 
Route: Yanagawa through Yoshinogari to Saga
Weather: Very cloudy, later a little bit of sun and a few drops of rain, windy, 12 C


I started the day in the onsen of my hotel and I ended it in an other onsen close to my new hotel in Saga. I had a hard time yesterday to find an accommodation, but finally the one I did fine, in Saga, close to the station, is very good. A big hotel, quite elegant and not very far from an onsen (well, more like a super-sento). So all is fine.


Between these two soaks, I had a small roundtrip - by bicycle only - through Yanagawa and then a ride up by bicycle to Yoshinogari, where there are remains of the Yayoi culture and a recreated village has been constructed. 

Yanagawa is famous for its nice channels and the boat rides on them. Well, I did not do the boat ride, essentially because doing it alone seemed a bit strange. So I just took some pictures of other people doing it:



As today was the first quite cold day on my trip through Japan, I did use my long trousers and did start my ride with a cardigan on. If you wonder, where the long trousers have come from, I added them to my luggage during my brief stop in Tokyo earlier this week. After a while of riding North against a fierce head wind, I did take of the cardigan though and continued in short sleeves. Still wondering if the jeans were the right garment for riding. They were perfect though for the touristic part of today.

The ride up North was through a typical and not very nice Japanese landscape. Well, not really LANDscape, but more like a VILLAGEscape. There was everything mixed, fields, plants, houses, abandoned houses, old houses, new ones, derelict ones, shopping centers, convenience stores... Everything mixed and in between rice fields. It didn't help that the wind was blowing strongly and not in my direction...



But finally I did arrive to the Yoshinogari Historical park, where important Yayoi excavations have been done, but more importantly from a touristic perspective, an entire village including residences for the ruling class and temples have been reconstructed. 

It reminded me a lot of the village of Asterix. Probably these wild boar at the entrance to the village did help create this impression: 



And well, the wooden wall around the village:


Also the houses really looked very Asterix-like. One could enter into most of them, where small every day scenes of the rich and powerful of the Yayoi culture were depicted.



This was the most important temple/shrine of the village. About 16 m high with two big rooms for ceremonies.


There is also a small museum with the typical clay rests and spear points that one can see in all these kind of museums (obviously a Yayoi culture fan - or any other pre-historic culture fan will say that the tools used by the Yayoi compared to everyone else are very different... but to me they looked like the typical stone tools to cut meat, spears to hunt etc.

Further inside the park there is also a museum with the excavated remains of a burial ground. At least the rich got buried in large vases, closed by an other vase. These burials were quite large, a sitting corpse really only occupied half of it. 



These two here are Majestix (= Vitalstatistix) and Gutemine (= Impedimenta):



Bicycle touring Japan - Ride maps


For details on the bicycle tour today in Fukuoka and Saga, checkout the below maps:



Wednesday, 2 August 2017

Kyushu - possible routes

In Kyushu there are a few major events with limited days availability:
  • Sumo in Fukuoka
  • Yokagura in Takachiho
    • Starting mid November, but not every day (at least not the "real thing")
  • Tanegashima Art festival
  • Nagasaki Gunkanjima may require upfront booking (but no limitation on available days)

While this blog post is about planning a travel by bicycle, JR Kyushu is specially famous for their nice trains and rhe following trains are specially recommended (as per the Rough Guide) most of them require reservation:
  • Hakata - Yufuin - Beppu: Yufuin-no-mori
  • Hakata- Nagasaki: Kamome
  • Hakata - Beppu - Saiki: Sonic (see below travel to Takachiho)
  • Aso Boy
  • Kagoshima - Ibusuki: Ibusuki-no-tamatebako (see below Kagoshima)

Saiki to Takachiho ⇒ 2 days, 0 km
  • Access
  • Train Saiki to Nobeoka, 1 h 
    • Sonic train? 
  • Nobeoka - Takachiho, rental car, 1.5 h
  • Attractions
  • Accommodation
    • Takachiho (or driving down after performance to Miyazaki ?, 2h)
  • Handing car back either at Nobeoka, Miyazaki or Miyakonojo
    • If handing back at Miyazaki, cycle trip to Udo Shrine can be done

Miyazaki - Udo Shrine - Ibii ⇒ 1 day, 60 km (or shorter)
  • See Garmin KYU Miyazaki - Ibii - Udo Jingu
    • Along the coast, according to KANCycling, quite a nice coastal strip
    • relatively flat, with two sharp peaks at about 100m 
    • Train until Ibii is available, so ride can be cut short, about 1 train every hour
      • Ibii - Minami Miyazaki, direct, 40 min, last train 22:21 
      • Ibii - Kagoshima, 1 change, 3 - 4 h, last train 19:51
  • Attractions
  • Accommodation
    • Miyazaki or Kagoshima

Kagoshima - Sakurajima - Ibusuki - Chiran - Ichiki (or Sendai) ⇒  3 days, 106  - 114 km
  • Day 1 - Sakurajima  ⇒ 1 day, 36 km
    • Access 
      • Ferry from Kagoshima
        • runs every 15 min in daytime, 24/7
    • See Garmin KYU Sakurajima
      • Quite some up and down, 1 x 100 m, 3 x 80 m, 5 x 50 m
      • Last 8 km are flat
    • Attractions
    • Accommodation
      • Kagoshima
  • Day 2 & 3 (or 3/4 depending on excursion to Tanegashima, see below) - Kagoshima - Ibusuki - Chiran - Ichiki (or until Sendai shinkansen station) ⇒ 2 days,  90 km (or more/less)
    • Access
      • Ibusuki-no-tamatebako train, 3 daily, all reserved seats, 1 h 
    • See Garmin KYKYU Ibusuki - Ichiki
      • Quite some up and down
      • highest about 200 m
      • could be cut slightly short by taking train from Ibusuki to Ishikaki (50 - 60 min)
      • could also be extended from Ichiki to Sendai (18 km)
    • Attractions
      • Train ride to Ibusuki
      • Ibusuki (onsen & sand baths)
      • Chiran (samurai village)
    • Accommodation
      • Chiran ??? (not sure that there is one, but there seems to be one Airbnb not too far)
    • Access
      • Ichiki to Kumamoto, 1 change, 1:15 h, including Shinkansen
      • Sendai to Kumamoto, direct, 45 min, shinkansen

Excursion from Kagoshima to Tanegashima ⇒ 1 - 2 days, 120 km (possibly better to find a bus or car)
  • Access
  • See Garmin KYU Tanegashima 
    • From 0 to 300 m and also more hills
  • Attractions 
  • Accommodation
    • Kagoshima
      • If by car, possibly as a day trip from Kagoshima by jet foil
    • Or Tanegashima

Kumamoto - Nagasaki ⇒ 1 + 2 days,  85 km (or less)
  • Access
    • e.g. by Shinkansen from Kagoshima, Fukuoka or Sendai
  • See Garmin KYU Kumamoto station - harbour, 13 km
    • flat
    • By ferry to Shimabara, 30 min, 6 - 7 per day
  • See Garmin KYU Shimabara - Nagasaki, 71 km 
    • one peak at 300 m just prior to Nagasaki (can be avoided by train), 1 x 50 m, the rest is flat
    • multiple possibilities to cut short 
  • Attractions (Nagasaki)
    • Landscape around Shimabara
    • Nagasaki
      • A-bomb museum
      • Dejima
      • Gunkanjima (may require ahead booking)  (UNESCO World Heritage)
  • Accommodation
    • Nagasaki, 3 nights?

Nagasaki - Fukuoka ⇒ 3 + 1 days, 177 km (or less)
  • See Garmin KYU Nagasaki - Fukuoka 
    • 300 m right after Nagasaki, afterwards practically flat
    • Can be shortened in multiple locations taking a train
  • Attractions
  • Accommodation
    • multiple cities on the route

North of Fukuoka ⇒ 2 - 3 days, 85 km (or less)

Here the link to the actual rides I did in Kyushu.

Other possible cycle routes in Kyushu



Other possible attractions in Kyushu 
  • Attractions (Oita)