GW2026 D8 coast line of Kunisaki peninsula

Route: Kunimimachi - Oita airport - Kitsuki
Bicycle: 32 km
Bus: 15 km
Total elevation: 351 m

Average speed: 14,8 km/h
Riding time: 2:10 h
Weather: Sunny, 20C , very windy but tailwind

Today the plan was to cycle on to Kitsuki, about 40-50 km from my lodging of the night for the last two days of this Golden Week trip. I hadn’t fully decided if to cycle along the coast or halfway up on the “orange road”, but the lady from the accommodation recommended the coastal road at least initially, and yes, it was very nice. Probably the one yesterday was also nice, but as I was riding through the rain much less enjoyable. So to the first village and conbini I cycled down along the coast and even found after a few kilometers a cycling path. 

On the side of the bicycle road they were also sun drying the local seaweeds we had for dinner yesterday.

From there I tried the “orange road”, but it was just a normal hillside / countryside road. No oranges and crucially no views of the sea. So after a bit I returned down to the coast. 

There were some nice stone formations on the shore…

… one called “buttocks stone”:

 

After not too long however my gear cable snapped leaving me stuck in the hardest gear. I replanned my route to have as little elevation gain as possible and probably would have been able to make it to Kitsuki under my own “steam”… but I had an accident at the UFO sight. Yes, Oita airport has a real UFO and “red men”… and a sight of departing aircraft.

When I was just about to depart the chain got stuck between the frame and small gear and I fell off. Luckily it was on a very quiet parking lot, so no danger and a biker was at hand who helped me deentangle from the bike. At this point I had lost my confidence in riding with broken gears and had a bleeding knee, so I walked the about 500 m down to the airport where the friendly ladies at the information desk gave me disinfectant and wound tape. 

I packed up my bicycle already in “Shinkansen” position, ie with both wheels removed and took the bus to Kitsuki. By pure luck, the beer is a bus stop right outside of my lodging and they let me in early. So really perfect place to fall from my bike. And perfect timing as I don’t need to move anywhere tomorrow before returning on Wednesday by train to Tokyo. 

 

GW2026 D6 TOTO toilet museum

Route: Shimonoseki - Kokura - Buzen

Bicycle: 82 km

Walking: 780 m (from Honshu to Kyushu)

Total ascent: 818 m

Average speed: 15,1 km/h

Riding time: 5:26 h

Weather: Sunny but overcast, 26C

 

Today only had one highlight and a lot of lowlights. 

Highlight: TOTO toilet museum

Lowlights: 

• all the traffic between Shimonoseki until way beyond Kokura. It took 50 km+ to get into a region without big streets and lots of cars, and only because I managed to veer off the coast to a road halfway up to mountain. 
• The chemical smell dominating well beyond Kokura and being extremely strong in Kokura city. Not really sure how people would want to live there. 

Starting from my hotel I road a few more km in Yamaguchi, taking in the view of the bridge connecting Honshu with Kyushu…

… while I took the pedestrian tunnel. 

On the other side of the tunnel is Mojiko, a port city that seems to have some Western history. At least around the port and station area there are multiple Western style old houses. 

From there it was a struggle through traffic to get to the toilet museum. I had known about this museum since I first cycled in Kyushu during my Tour of Japan in 2017, but back then I was nowhere close to it. A few years ago when I was cycling around Mt Aso and Oita I had considered going, but again it was out of the way. So finally! 

The museum is in the middle of the TOTO plant, a modern building.

The museum explains the story of Toto and its associated companies producing everything with ceramics, from plates to construction material and parts of electronics, but also toilets and full baths. 

This is the first sitting toilet produced in Japan:

And this the first washlet, now omnipresent in Japanese houses. 

What is always surprising how much ceramics shrink firing:

There was however also a Sumo wrestler and a children option:

When I built my house last year I had so many choices to make, but for the toilet I had decided ahead of time to go with TOTO, as TOTO is for me the definition of Japanese toilets. I am sure that the LIXIL toilet would have been just as good. While with my TOTO bathroom I am really happy, as it has a slightly soft floor. 

After the toilet museum it was back to the traffic and the air pollution. Frankly the roads or route got a bit better, but still not really enjoyable for a cycling trip. I had even considered taking a train to my final destination, but weather was good so I did work up the courage to continue cycling. Only the last 20 km or so were in small vials and the countryside but only because I managed to swear off the main roads onto a tertiary road through the foothills of some mountain. 

PS: so now I finally made it to THE toilet museum, which I thought was unique… and what does the competition do? Open an other toilet museum! https://www.japan-guide.com/blog/raina/260313.html

GW2026 D5 onto Shimonoseki in the rain

Route: Ichinomata onsen to Shimonoseki
Bicycle: 57 km
Total ascent: 596 m
Average speed:15,4 km/h
Riding time: 3:42 h
Weather: mostly rain, 15 C 

Today more rain. It didn’t rain all the time , but enough to not allow for any real sightseeing. I think the biggest “discovery“ of the day was , how much traffic there is around Shimokoseki. After the last few days where even some national roads were small tracks, this came as a bad surprise. Cycling out of Yamaguchi was much better, not a lot of traffic and quickly outside of town. While Shimonoseki is a very long town, that O needed to cross completely. 

I started the day with a quick visit to the onsen before ryokan breakfast. By the time I was ready to depart the rain had stopped since a few minutes  but it wouldn’t stay so. 

My first goal was a wisteria tree I found on Google Maps, but not in reality and on the rain I wasn't motivated to search for it, shortly after I had my first conbini stop. While getting something hot to drink the rain had stopped. Shortly after the conbini stop was the highlight of the day: 

According to an app on my phone it’s a tung oil tree and apparently poisonous. But those flowers were magnificent. I don’t remember ever seeing this tree before  , at least not with flowers. 

Shortly after was a stop in a gorge. It was however too slippery with the rain and fallen leaves to walk alongside the stream. I got “on the road” (aka “very small path theoretically passable for a car”) and walked a bit up until I came to a small waterfall. 

It’s probably nice in autumn with some colors on the trees.

After lunch it started raining again just to cease once much closer to Shimonoseki. The town seems to be famous for this tower and for fugu!

Fugu simply everywhere. As a lamp in the onsen of the hotel, on the manholes, on an other lamp in the onsen and there is the statue to the fugu in front of the main station.