This blog is about travelling through Japan on a bicycle. Initially on a foldable bicycle (Brompton) and more recently mostly by road bike (Spezialized)... but also by train, ferry, plane, bus or any other transport, if sea, weather, mountains or the like come between me and my desire to ride.
I have tried to summarise information that could be potentially helpful also for other bicycle travellers through Japan, such as list of bicycle roads, helpful web pages etc.

Tuesday 3 January 2023

NY2023 D4 Kyoto - Kameoka

Route: Kyoto - Arashiyama - Mizuo - Kameoka
Bicycle: 51 km
Train: 20 km
Average Speed: 14.8 km/h
Total Ascent: 714 m
Riding Time: 3;28 h
Weather: Sunny but cold and a few snowflakes, 4 C

Today did go to plan and was nice and different from the previous days. Since I am in Kyoto I thought it only fair to explore some areas around Kyoto where I haven’t been before. So when I looked at a map yesterday it seemed that the plain around Kameoka might be a good destination. But as so often it isn’t the destination but the way to it. 

I saw that there was a pass behind Arashiyama and initially planned to ride up there and then turn on a street that runs parallel to the Sagano Torokko train, but per Komoot that road isn’t passable (although per Google maps it even has a road number), so I also planned an alternative route further up into the mountains and then down to Kameoka plain. 

While riding I met one other cyclist and I met him at the right moment, not too far from the turn I would have needed to take to get in that road. But he advised that that road has trees lying across and is generally more something for a mountain bike. So I continued up the “main” road to this mountain village, famous for its Yuzu

I am saying “main” road, because although technically it is the main road there is hardly any traffic. So perfect for us cyclists. 

It was a long ascent but doable. I only pushed the bike for a few meters on the first ascent close to the top, and with the excuse that there was a car behind me that wanted to take over, so I got off... and there was just no possibility to get on the bike again, too steep for that. But the rest, I slowly but steadily made my way up. 

Already on the way down, I even passed this Gassho zukuri house:

The descent was also okay. Not too steep, the road surface good enough, only very few cars... but cold! Although I had put on again all my layers of clothing, which admittedly as a cyclist in winter aren't actually that many, my fingers were frozen when I arrived in the valley. But once down in the plain, I found a conbini, got a hot drink and a hot bun and was on my way again for the two tourist spots of today. 

Frankly I hadn't done a lot of research yesterday, but saw on google maps two temples which I picked. The first one seemed to be closed today... so I only have a picture of the gate (which was open... but nothing behind it was open): 

While the second wasn't exactly teeming with activity, but there must have been something shortly before I arrived. At least there were still a lot of people clearing things up. I also saw a few people leave with their Kagami Mochi.

In a corner of the temple was a small fire, where a long rope was being burned. I saw on New Years Eve quite a lot of people in Kyoto walking around with small ropes (maybe about 30 cm long) that were burning on one end. 


From there it was a short way to the station in Kameoka, where I left the bike in a proper bicycle parking house to wait for me until tomorrow... so now I need to make plans for tomorrow starting in Kameoka... 


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