This blog is about travelling through Japan on a bicycle. Initially on a foldable bicycle (Brompton) and more recently mostly by road bike (Spezialized)... but also by train, ferry, plane, bus or any other transport, if sea, weather, mountains or the like come between me and my desire to ride.
I have tried to summarise information that could be potentially helpful also for other bicycle travellers through Japan, such as list of bicycle roads, helpful web pages etc.

Friday 29 December 2023

NY2024 - D1 Shrines prepping for Hatsumode

Route: Kyoto - Keihoku - Kameoka - Kyoto
Bicycle: 91 km
Total ascent: 1090 m
Average speed: 16.7 km/h
Riding time: 5:26 h
Weather: Cloudy a bit of sun and kind of cold, 6C


Yesterday was my last working day of this year. A very quiet day. I had already sent my suitcase to my hotel in Kyoto on Tuesday and the bicycle was standing in the entrance already all packed up with both wheels removed, so I only had to bring a small backpack with my work computer (next week Thursday and Friday I’ll be working from Osaka office) and get the train to Tokyo station. JR had decided that from 28/Dec to, I think 4/Jan all Nozomi shinkansen trains are reserved seats only. They even sent a lengthy, Japanese only email explaining how to walk to the shinkansen entrance (which I ignored as it seemed way too complicated specially with the bike and all). Really setting the scene for huge crowds at Tokyo station. But actually it was pretty normal. I was early at the station, so that I changed the ticket (in the EX app) a when I was at the Shinkansen gate to a train half an hour earlier without any problem, still getting a seat with luggage allowance for the bike. 

For my days in Kyoto I don't have a very specific plan, except riding my bicycle in the surroundings of Kyoto. A few days ago I looked up on komoot suggested routes close to Kyoto and then yesterday evening did chose the one for today. Starting in Kyoto, going North and up into the hills and then down again to Kameoka and back over the hills to Kyoto. A very nice ride, except probably the last part from Kameoka back to Kyoto. It wasn't too bad either, but on a relatively busy road and then also Kyoto on that side of town was quite busy and ugly. I know there are better ways from Kameoka back to Kyoto, but those go over higher passes... and there was no time for that today. 

My first stop was still in Kyoto, at a large shrine complex already fully prepared for the Hatsumode in a few days. But now still totally quiet. 


There were multipe shrine buildings all prepared for the influx of visitors over the next few days. 


Initially I hadn't planned to visit this shrine and had actually already passed... but then thought that it would be a shame to let such a big shrine (Imamiya shrine) unvisited. It is in the area of Kinkakuji... but clearly doesn't get any international tourists. Who knows why. It clearly didn't make it on any "tourist to do list". 


From there the road up into the mountains started. Initially on the map it looked like a biggish road, yellow and all... but actually it was a very small road with hardly any traffic, going up and up. Not a lot of view points, but nice through the forrest. 


In a small village on the way I came accross an other shrine, but a very small one. Only on google maps it seemed to be an important one. And actually there was an explanation sign and I think the shrine dates back to Heian period... so actually pretty old. 



While there I checked on google maps for food options and saw a ramen place in right behind an upcoming tunnel. It seemed a pretty normal ramen place, but it was specialized in wild boar ramen (and deer / wild boar gyoza). I took the ramen, very delicious: 


From there it was kind of downhill or flattish uphill until my way was interrupted by a closed road... luckily the diversion was on a very small and nice road along a river. But it meant a little bit more climbing in afterwards. 


Heading towards Kameoka came this shrine, Izumu Daijingu which in komoot had given the name to the entire ride, although it wasn't really the hightlight of the day. The highlight were simply those relatively small streets through the mountains. Up and down enjoying the mountainous country side spreckled with a few small villages.  


At this shrine also last preparation for Hatsumode were ongoing, but all still very very quiet. A quietness to take a breath before the busy days ahead. 


From there down to Kameoka, up through the hills to Kyoto and down towards downtown Kyoto until I decided to look for an onsen to wash, relax and have dinner. Once I had settled for one, when planning the route to it, I noticed in komoot a suggestion for a sightseeing spot, a bamboo forrest. And this is a huge bamboo forest. It is prepared for tourists in principle... but in practice there weren't any. For walking it is too big and too far away from other sights. But for people considering to rent a bicycle in Kyoto definitely a good idea. Similar to the famouse bamboo forrest in Arashiyama, but much, much bigger and with no tourists. This bamboo forrest is still a growing place for bamboo, not a show piece. 


When already back in Kyoto I looked on google maps for a super sento and found this one, which kind of seemed on the way. It was reasonable well on the way for the initial part (and only thanks to this onsen I had discovered - in komoot - the bambus forrest above... but riding from here back to the hotel along the river was only good in some parts. It was simply quite dark along those rivers and the one close to the hotel is kind of difficult to navigate with too many large roads around. But I made it back to the hotel sound and safe. 


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