This blog is about travelling through Japan on a bicycle. Initially on a foldable bicycle (Brompton) and more recently mostly by road bike (Spezialized)... but also by train, ferry, plane, bus or any other transport, if sea, weather, mountains or the like come between me and my desire to ride.
I have tried to summarise information that could be potentially helpful also for other bicycle travellers through Japan, such as list of bicycle roads, helpful web pages etc.

Saturday 16 March 2024

D1 - Muro temple and art

Route: Sakurai - Uda - Muro - Akame - Nabari
Bicycle: 53 km
Train: 30 km
Total ascent: 1215 m
Average speed: 14,1 km/h
Riding time: 3:47 h
Weather: sunny and early spring, probably around 16C (but Wahoo thinks it was -124 C ...)


Next Wednesday is a local holiday and originally our boss was going to come to Japan next week as well, likely to Osaka. So quite a long time ago, I think probably shortly after my winter ride here in inner Nara prefecture, I reserved a hotel in Sakurai to continue exploring this area that I like so much. 

To have extra time I already arrived yesterday evening by Shinkansen and local trains from Tokyo. So today I could start immediately with the ride. 

I had bookmarked two locations closeby based on recommendations from the Japan Guide Forum

  • Muro Art Forest
  • Akame 48 Waterfall's

But it turned out that I would manage only the Art Forest. But let’s go in order.

I planned a route yesterday evening which turned out to be on very nice and very quiet roads once I turned away from the state road after about 7,5 km, and actually I could have enjoyed even more rural roads as most of the steep part of the state road had a village road in parallel , which stupidly I didn’t take. But once away from there quite soon I came to a long lake with a small road that had hardly any traffic. It was even a recommended route from Nara prefecture and well indicated.

The route went to Muro, where my first google pin was. But while cycling there I noticed that everywhere there were indications of Muro temple. So I decided to give it a visit. It starts like any normal temple with a big gate...


... then goes up what seems to be a lot of stairs ...


... until you realize, beyond the pagoda ...


... that ... 


... the stairs hadn’t even yet started in serious.


Only at the end of these long and somewhat irregular stairs is the Inner temple with a nice view over the valley.

The village itself was very traditional and surprisingly touristic. 

But could easily be host to a TV series of Showa or even Taisho period.

I had a very good vegetable lunch in a traditional ryokan at the entrance to the temple before continuing and exploring the Art forest.

This art installation was quite popular with young people (in their 20s and 30s). Only a few people above that age range had also made it to the park. Probably all the pictures end up on Instagram... except mine... which end up here on blogger for no one to read. 



Originally my plan was to then go to the 48 waterfalls and ride back to Sakurai... but with all this sightseeing it had gotten quite late. I still did cycle onwards to the waterfalls but when I arrived it was already after 15:00 and I would only have been able to walk a part of the trail. Apparently it takes 90 minutes to walk to the farest waterfall and 90 minutes back. So a real hike. But that will be for tomorrow. I hadn't a specific plan, apart from leaving the bicycle at a train station in that area and continue exploring from there... so now I even know what to explore. Tomorrow weather is going to be somewhat worse... so I hope to get an early start to see the waterfalls and then decide if just riding back by train, riding back the same way I cycled up there today or explore somewhere further. No pressure. 

But it is good that finally it is warm enough to again combine cycling and tourism. Back in January it was definitely too cold for that. 

From the non-waterfalls I cycled down to Nabari, which resulted to be already in Mie prefecture and went to a super sento there. There were some more rural onsen on the way, but both I saw were already closed (and this was before 16:00). Probably in the afternoon/evening they are only for staying guests. 

After a good soak I left the bicycle in the parking lot of Nabari station, put my 220 yen into a un unmaned box and took the train back to Sakurai. Although this region is very rural, there are surprisingly many trains. About 4 or 5 every hour towards Osaka and probably a similar number towards the coast of Mie prefecture. 



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