NY2023 D1 New Year in Kyoto お正月京都で

Route: To Higashi Kyoto

Bicycle: 18 km

Average Speed: 11.5 km/h

Total Ascent: 138 m

Riding Time: 1:36

Weather: Cold and dark... but dry, 3 C

For my first year back in Japan, I have come for the New Year (and until 9/Jan) to Kyoto. And it did not disappoint. 

I had come without a precise plan for these next 10 days. The new not fixed appointment is on Friday, when I have to go to Osaka office for the first working day in 2023. My company is closed 2-5/Jan and the 9/Jan is a local holiday again. Luckily Kyoto /Osaka are so close that commuting there won’t be a problem. 

An other reason I decided for Kyoto is that in smaller cities there is a risk that everything, including restaurants & shops are closed for the first few days of the year. But in a big city such as Kyoto that isn’t a risk. Many things are closed, but enough is open to still have plenty of choice. 

So anyway, I came without detailed plan, so while I was waiting for the delivery of my suitcase I planned some rides. 

Although this isn’t my first New Year in Japan, it was the first time I went to temples at midnight. And which city better for that than Kyoto!

I had searched a bit on the internet which temples and shrines are the best for New Year, and - not surprisingly - there were several suggested temples in Eastern Kyoto. The first temple I went to (and where I parked and then explored the area on foot) was Koudaiji 高台寺 and it was the best of all. 

Quite serene, albeit the many visitors and they even had free Amazake (a kind of sweet , warm , rice porridge drink). 

I was there too early to wait for midnight so went over to Yanaka shrine, which must have been so full that it was impossible to even approach it. It seemed that all ways leading to it were cut of by friendly but resolute watchmen. There was a big night fair behind the shrine though.

When it became clear that this shrine wasn’t going to be reasonably easily accessible, I walked back to Kodaiji, where I arrived a few minutes before midnight, right in time for the midnight countdown.

At the temple itself a monk was playing a huge drum, hitting it not only on the surface, but also the sides and striking over the nails that hold the skin in place with his drum sticks.

Shortly after midnight I left and went in search for an other temple, which however turned out to be closed so decided to head back to my holiday apartment.