This blog is about travelling through Japan on a bicycle. Initially on a foldable bicycle (Brompton) and more recently mostly by road bike (Spezialized)... but also by train, ferry, plane, bus or any other transport, if sea, weather, mountains or the like come between me and my desire to ride.
I have tried to summarise information that could be potentially helpful also for other bicycle travellers through Japan, such as list of bicycle roads, helpful web pages etc.

Sunday, 23 October 2022

Fuji-5-Lakes

Day 1
Route: Around 4 of the 5 Fuji lakes
Bicycle: 82 km
Train: 100 km
Average speed: 17,2 km/h
Total ascent: 595 m
Weather: cloudy, some sun, colder than expected, 12C
Riding time: 4:44 h

Day 2
Route: Yamanakako - Otsuki - Sagamiko- Hashimoto 
Bicycle: 115 km
Train: 35 km
Average speed: 19.2 km/h
Total ascent: 695 m
Weather: sunny and warmer than expected, 18 C
Riding time: 5:57 h

Finally it has become cold enough to enjoy the outside. Per the weather forecast the entire weekend is supposed to be very sunny. So during last week I looked at some cycling route books I have at home to find some nice cycling destination. And decided to come to Mount Fuji to cycle around the five lakes that lie at its foot.


When I went on Friday evening to Shinjuku station to buy a ticket in the last row (so I can store the bike behind) of the Xpress train direct from Shinjuku to Kawaguchiko, I found out that the all trains between 7:30 and 9:30, were sold out completely. I hadn’t expected that so many people were coming to Kawaguchiko, but it is really a nice destination, so why not.

So instead I came by local trains. I cycled to Meidaimae, close to home, packed up my bicycle and took my first train already before 7 o’clock in the morning. Another three trains would follow, but all the change of trains went very smooth. And on the last train the one from Otsuki to Kawaguchiko it was even allowed officially to bring “naked” bicycles onto the train. First time ever for me in Japan.


Once here, I dropped off my luggage at my hotel for the night, and then set out to Kawaguchiko lake, The first in a series of four lakes today. There is a fifth lake, but it is a little bit farther away, so I decided to make another separate day out of the 5th lake.

There are views of Mount Fuji from all four lakes, and quite different as some of the lakes are relatively distant. 


For koyo it is still too early, but it must be beautiful  for large extensions one can see only woods. 

At one of the lakes there was even a toilet with a view:

One lake, Lake Shoiji, I even cycled around twice as the view was so nice. 

On the way back I took the most direct road (as suggested by Komoot) to town, but I suspect that the road on around lake Kawaguchiko would have been better less traffic  

As I didn’t cram in 5 lakes in 1 day, I had time to visit the famous pagoda with the view of Mt. Fuji. The pagoda itself is fairly new and actually relatively small, but has to admit that the view is great and by then also the sun had come out. 

On the second day I started with lake Yamanakako, probably the biggest of all 5 and for most part it has a wonderful cycling path around it:

The weather was also absolutely perfect  so a really nice ride around the lake. From there I had decided to cycle back to Hashimoto but there are two ways, on starts right at the lake goes a bit up and then down through the mountains (seems to be a good way to cycle to Mt. Fuji), but it’s in the middle of the mountains so I was a bit fearful if I am tired too early there is nothing to do but to go on. So instead I decided for a way through Otsuki which essentially is parallel to some train lines all the time. But obviously not so much in the nature and more through villages. Also the road from Otsuki to Sagamiko has more traffic than I would like and is quite narrow. So it probably wasn’t the best decision. 

Anyway I made it all the way to Hashimoto, which was my first 100+ km ride since arriving in Japan in May. At Sagamiko I saw all these animal shaped boats:




Sunday, 9 October 2022

Hinohara with friends 友達と日野原へ

Day1
Route: Tokyo - Tamagawa - Hinohara
Bicycle:  76 km
Average speed:  16.3 km/h
Total ascent:  468 m
Riding time: 4:38 h
Weather: cloudy, 16 C

My first longer ride with my cycling friends in Tokyo staying overnight in a newly build co-working , co-workation space in the mountains around Tokyo. Hinohara, the only village in Tokyo prefecture. 

A friend of my friends (who many years ago also regularly participated in the NPC rides) had moved out of Tokyo city some years ago to this village to work in local development. One of his projects was this co-working space.


A building with an interesting architecture in this quaint valley. We were one of the first groups to stay (and not work). And even had a small barbecue in the evening in front of the house.

The beds were bunk beds and then there is one big common area. Ideal for a group of friends.

The ride to Hinohara was along the Tama river for most part, with some stops to relax, have lunch, ice cream and buy food for dinner down in the village and then cycle up with all the food (and booze) to the house.

We were a very mixed group , some bromptons and some road bikes.



Day 2
Route: Around Hinohara
Bicycle:  49 km
Train: 55 km 
Average speed: 15 km/h
Total ascent:  564 m
Riding time: 3:17 h
Weather: cloudy and a few rain drops,  14 C

On the second day we explored a bit the surroundings of the house and then cycled upwards to an onsen halfway up to the pass. 

On the way we stopped at a cafe to have a late breakfast. The onsen was nice, but unfortunately no view. 

After relaxing in the onsen it was a downhill ride back to Musashi Ikutsukaichi from where we put our bikes in a bag and on the train back home. On the way down, we stopped for lunch (eating is an important agenda point on every excursion of any Japanese) at a nearby of , traditional house.

It was great fun cycling with friends. Not something I have done frequently. 



Sunday, 2 October 2022

Weekend away in Chichibu 秩父で週末を

Day 1
Route: Temples around Chichibu 
Bicycle:  46 km
Train: 80 km 
Average speed: 14  km/h
Total ascent: 503 m 
Riding time: 3:10 h
Weather: Sunny, blue skies and no longer that hot, 24 C


Finally it has become cool enough to enjoy the outside. Per the weather forecast the entire weekend is supposed to be very sunny but not too hot. So I decided to do a weekend away in Chichibu. Not my first time in Chichibu but first time at some of the temples.

Around Chichibu there is a famous pilgrimage of 34 kannon temples. A whole bunch of them are all packed together in the village before then petering out into the countryside. 

I got up early, cycled to Ikebukuro and took a very flashy train:


In some of my previous visits to Chichibu I had already visited several of the temples, so for this weekend I planned to travel to the ones a bit further afield (but did also repeat a few known temples. 

I stayed in Chichibu itself in a somewhat strange hotel. It must have been the dormitory of a company. The rooms were like 1K (1 room with kitchen) apartments and there was a dinning room. I had taken the room with breakfast, something I don’t do very often as Japanese breakfast is mostly lost on me, so I was very surprised that there was tiramisu at breakfast (among many other things) and it was exceptionally good. But that belongs to Day 2. Day 1 ended in an onsen not too far from the hotel along a river. Nice, somewhat older super sento.




Day2
Route: Temples around Chichibu and back to Tokyo.
Bicycle:  78 km
Train: km 
Average speed: 15.8 km/h
Total ascent: 691 m 
Riding time: 4:09 h 48
Weather: Sunny, blue skies and a bit hotter than necessary, but cyclable, 25C


Blabla 

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